Lidewij Edelkoort will now also far away from fashion now a term be industry, the trend and consumer research for some one or one, for the native Dutch is Oracle of an entire industry, summarizes current on the point, calls developments, which we could perhaps long track, but not in words and talk straight in a circus, which although now and again still glitters , which basically but pretty bad is.
With her thesis “fashion as we know it, is dead” publish anti-fashion manifesto polarized at the time from her last year, should however be right: Designer changed 2016 as often as never the positions, the “Lake of now, buy now” concept was implemented almost everywhere and seems the ruble against don’t expect the roles to bring, and while some brands on extravagance and use loud OHS , while beads of sweat on his forehead have they no longer threaten in the coming year “vogue”, the others rely on simple, but strong sales products without Whaows other spectacle. What’s going on? And how do we get from it? In an interview with the Deutsche Welle you sat down with the trend researcher Edelkoort again at the table. The result? A small inventory of their theses, their predictions – and a Status Quo. There are no new insights are there waiting for us, but there are small documents that explain fairly clearly the codes of fashion and the signs of the times:
“emancipation of everything”
“the presidential election in the US brought the whole idea of women’s rights back. It’s the revival of female emancipation”: feminism is capitalized again, women organize themselves, start “round tables” and which want to move again. Gloria Steinem and Annie Leibovitz opened an exhibition of portraits of women, who will soon go on a world tour. Also we see that in Germany more and more: innen & trustthegirls, to name just two examples of public.
Also: “5 reasons why we should be all feminist *. “also: “we should all be feminists” and “who to follow: feminist Instagram accounts”
Also: Feminism & consumer.
The new generation of men
Care multiplied their children, want a peaceful world and are more emancipated women not afraid. How is that expressed in the fashion: male fashion is soft, feminine and the color palette is pastel, so Li Edelkoort.
“This whole system no longer works. The wheel turns and spins faster and faster, and kills not only creativity, but the whole business. Most of you survive at the end just with bags and perfumes,”explains also Demna Gvasalia, in an interview with the business of fashion. Only logical that it is now finally also the gender boundaries on the collar. Men’s and women’s fashion belong together recently, not only at Vêtements, but Burberry, Givenchy and Gucci. While the man fashion show just past one saw so many female models like never on the catwalk. Probably also because the man is exactly what our company called female in also in vogue: there, floral lace, tight pants and even skirts looks playful suits. But also because of clever marketing reasons, because nowhere else are harvested for nearly invisible intermediate collections as much attention as on the runway of the main collection of the opposite sex.
Acne Studio S/S 2016 men.
S/S Prada 2017 men
Gucci S/S 2016 men.
“But in these times of fear, in the big parts of the world, densely structured fighting societies, fashion tends to become very extravagant.”
Balloon sleeves, white collar, lush ruffles, petticoats, flashy details theatrical clothing, opulence and extravagance of lots =.
Miu Miu A/W 2016
Gucci S/S 2016 campaign.
But there’s also the other side, the secure number:
“Fashion gets political when clothes become uniforms”
Designer bills and more pressure lead to more safety.”There is no end to the greed, so the brands are spreading themselves thin. They cannot take any risk any more. They focus on the small things, primarily the leather goods since they are easier to sell, and their employees are sick of this style of work. So fashion back takes a step and becomes the accessory to the accessories. Fashion has lost its meaning.” The result: less risk and clothing that works for all generations: such as shirts or hoodies.
BOSS pre case 2016
“I read a book on fascism in Germany in the 1930s, and almost page by page I was reminded of the rhetoric of today in France and Great Britain, so I this would happen knew that, because we as a species don’t learn.”
“Fascism is triggered by fear, the fear of the loss of income, autonomy of , of voice. The masses live in fear, and therefore want to obey. They want to listen to a stronger power so they can live in obedience, which is the hallmark of fascism.”
Departure: more underground = layering, kinky material, velvet and nomad-inspired looks, giving us the possibility to take his heels, so Li Edelkoort simply and immediately.
Nomadic look a la the row.
The Velvet revival.
But what comes?
Jacquemus A/W 2016
Jacquemus S / S 2017
A good value for money, a good balance between longevity and good quality “what we ’ re trying to do is bridge to Silicon Valley and Hudson Valley, technology and nature. I ’ m talking about computerized yarns that can emit sound waves, light, that can carry medical or even defensive equipment, that can change color or become a musical instrument.”
However, the imperative of it all is to go to the humble beginnings. We are looking at techniques from centuries ago, from the beginning of time, actually, but we intimate them avant-garde. It ’ s very exciting! CHANEL-BY-KARL-LAGERFELD-cropping-and-mo-11-IRIS-VAN-HERPEN backstage SHOW-FW15-Pres
Mode of the 3D printer as with Chanel & Iris van Herpen.
The interview there with Li Edelkoort and Deutsche Welle here still something referred to in German. Zsuzsana Toth for Hey Woman together has taken even more theses by Li Edelkoort.