Japan Line Bonne Gueule

The idea of this shirt was born as often of dissatisfaction.

I could not find ready-to-wear linen shirts well cut. Most of the time, the collars are soft and sagging, and the cuts are ample, with drooping shoulders.

In short, the relaxation and summer side of flax is taken in the first degree. If these shirts can obviously find their place in an outfit casual , it quickly becomes complicated when we want to place them in a more formal dress.

We wanted to offer a different path: a linen shirt perfectly cut , also styled with chinos with a suit.

At  Pitti Uomo last summer  (yes, this is an event that influenced me a lot), I immediately noticed with what talent Italians integrate linen shirts in their formal wear.

This contrast of style-a formal attire with a summer field – is very interesting and little used in France.

So we chose a linen at Albini (the same as for Italian weaver  our Dobby shirt). Cultivated in France and woven in Italy. And that linen has a very particular history, since ‘ it is certified “Master of Linen” (explanations below!).

Flax: a fiber with unknown properties

At the beginning of my thoughts on linen shirt, I just thought “Flax is a good material for summer”. I admit that my level of knowledge was not the highest, especially for a passionate of clothes and materials like me …

And yet, As my research, I realized that this material has many more stories to tell than we may think.

For example, do you know that the cultivation of flax requires a lot of know-how, and requires 5 times more labor than the cultivation of wheat? Or the French flax is a great reference in the world ( 75% of world production)?

So before you show the two shirts in detail, a few words on linen, a matter that contains many surprises …

What is the “CELC Master of Linen”?

Above all, it must be known that the cultivation of flax is well promoted in Europe, in particular thanks to a special body: the CELC.

The European Confederation of Flax and Hemp (CELC) is the only agro-industrial European umbrella organization uniting and all stages of production and processing of flax and hemp.No, it has nothing to do with the Trade Federation from Star Wars!

And the least we can say is that the CELC is very pedagogue in his explanations on flax. They produced this beautiful video, hymn to the culture and use of flax:

This small document, very well made, is cared for at the level of realization. It is especially full of mini interviews with people passionate about flax, and devoted to making quality linen (besides, they explain very well what quality linen is). You will also have an overview of operations to have a nice thread; You’ll see, it’s quite technical. Do not miss if you are a bit curious about what you wear as garment.

As for the label Master of Linen, c’ is a trademark certifying 100% Made in Europe: CELC provides guarantee traceability of European flax, the plant wire and thread the fabric. In other words, flax our shirt was grown (in France), harvested and woven in Europe.

This is not merely a matter of economic protectionism. Indeed, European flax (especially Norman flax) has a real added value that can not be relocated.

Why is Norman linen so special?

Well, simply because the climate and soil quality!

Normandy is a region with a special climate: its proximity to the ocean makes alternating between rain, sun and wind. And it falls well, that’s exactly what linen likes. These soils have a soil rich in nutrients for the plant. In short, it is a healthy and balanced diet for our little flaxseed.

Thanks to its special climatic conditions and the expertise of its liniculteurs, Normandy remains the main production area for this crop, which represents 60% of French production and 45% of European production processed. Normandy, first on quality linen

Recreate the conditions of such alchemy else on the planet is not possible (soil + climate + skill). You can grow linen elsewhere, but it will be hard to have the same fineness and thread resistance (this is very well explained in the video).

The advantages of Albini linen

Flax has this property of rapidly absorbing moisture. And when it’s hot, it also dries very quickly, unlike cotton. This absorbency, combined with a fast drying, that the linen wicks moisture when it’s hot, hence the sensation of freshness and comfort characteristic.

But where flax is misunderstood is that it also has thermoregulatory properties, particularly during cooler temperatures, where it keeps the heat better than cotton…

It is also resistant fiber (again, we can see very well in the video of the Master of Linen), which makes it impossible for fluff. Among the properties that we know is also a fiber hypoallergenic and not conducive to bacterial growth. You will agree, it is rather practical in case of summer sweating.

Some say that linen cloth would help reduce muscle tension, but I have not been able to find the source of this study, except that linen bed linen would be much appreciated for this reason

Finally, a word about the ecology of linen, I never suspected to be as eco-friendly. Indeed, it is 100% biodegradable, it produces zero waste (everything is reused in the linen) , zero irrigation necessary  (if not with natural rain water).

Its cultivation uses very few products and it even cleans the soil! With such advantages, it is therefore not surprising that it is widely supported and encouraged via the CELC.

After this (long) explanation on linen, let us now see our two new shirts in detail.

Linen shirts: two patterns

We chose two motives because, as usual, Geoffrey and I could not agree (even though I know my choice will be the best seller;)).

Both fabrics were from Albini and, as I mentioned, our linen shirts are 100% European , flax seed to the final fabric!

A linen shirt with fine stripes sky blue (Benoît)

The first is a pattern with pale blue stripes , very easy to wear. It fits without any problem with dressed parts.

There are two dyed yarns (one white and one pale blue) that intersect: there are thus delicate white dots on the stripes, as these are not printed on the fabric. This has the advantage of better holding the color.

This shirt combines the elegance of the pattern, and the relaxation of the material and cut .It’s the perfect “all-terrain” shirt when the weather gets warmer.

Luca, in the end amateur Italian style, insists that the shirt with thin blue stripes is a classic Italian male wardrobe (with white or blue shirt).

It’s fun to see that if you look a few meters, you’ll like seeing a shirt from a very pale blue (or white, if you like the long debates on the color of clothing ).

A linen shirt with micro-houndstooth motifs (Geoffrey)

The fabric chosen by Geoffrey is a houndstooth micro-pattern, which is more relaxed.

Its particularity is that it is necessary to approach a little to distinguish it. You have to see it to believe it, but it’s really houndstooth!

This more moose motif, he also  composed of son blue / turquoise and white , is simple to wear spring.

But as you know, nothing is ever frozen as far as clothing is concerned. And to prove it, here is a small photo of the houndstooth with a costume:

The finishes of our linen shirts

Having been traumatized by linen shirt collars all soft and wrinkled, we strengthened the fusing of the neck to fit very well in all circumstances, whether at the seaside or with a blazer to a terrace when you read the  Memoirs of the Wave Mechanics  of Erwin Schrödinger (or not).

At the finish, you’ll find the usual reinforcement swallow our shirts, this time with mother of pearl buttons mounted on a reinforcing tail.

For maintenance, the Portuguese workshop has already made an industrial washing shirts to stabilize: they will not move!

You must wash them at 30°, in low spin, and do not tumble dry. Moreover, since the strength of the flax fiber, the sleeve will become softer to progressively washes.

Which size should I choose?

As usual, I will not disappoint you: the shirts carve quite normally (if you have already taken the S home on a tee or shirt, take the S on this shirt Ditto for the other sizes.).

Caution regarding usage measurements guide ( which will be online at the same time as the product page ): This measuring guide is only in cases of doubt or for a very particular morphology. I’m pretty sure that 90% of readers do not need (do not complicate your life).

That said we remain at your service, always with pleasure, in the mails and comments!

Important point about the guide action: you’ll notice that we have not put shoulder to shoulder measurement, simply because the measure is downright complicated to make and may mislead you.

I challenge you to measure 5 times the same shirt at the shoulders and to have each time the same measure. The measure is not exploitable to compare it to a shirt that suits you. It is quite silly to explain: according to the manner in which the shirt is vintage and formal according to Vintagematters.net, you can have variations of the order of the centimeter.

Two shirts that we want to adopt

In short, these patterns will bring body to your looks, but will remain sufficiently discreet not to cause you problems in the construction of your outfits.

This is an additional style to everyone (this is not a political slogan).

Gallery

Chemise en chambray japonais

Chemise en chambray japonais

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

Chemise en chambray japonais

Chemise en chambray japonais

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

Jeans droit BONNE GUEULE W25 (T 34) bleu

Jeans droit BONNE GUEULE W25 (T 34) bleu

Source: www.videdressing.com

Dessin

Dessin

Source: www.bonnegueule.fr

[Del Sol] Petit plaisir du Weekend

[Del Sol] Petit plaisir du Weekend

Source: www.japancar.fr

[Del Sol] Petit plaisir du Weekend

[Del Sol] Petit plaisir du Weekend

Source: www.japancar.fr

Japan Expo Sud 2012 : le bilan…

Japan Expo Sud 2012 : le bilan...

Source: layla.over-blog.fr

Japan Expo Sud 2012 : le bilan…

Japan Expo Sud 2012 : le bilan...

Source: layla.over-blog.fr

BonneGueule : mode homme, conseils en style, tests de marques

BonneGueule : mode homme, conseils en style, tests de marques

Source: www.bonnegueule.fr

Notre jean brut en toile japonaise Kurabo

Notre jean brut en toile japonaise Kurabo

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

Jean selvedge brut Kurabo

Jean selvedge brut Kurabo

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

Notre jean brut en toile japonaise Kurabo

Notre jean brut en toile japonaise Kurabo

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

Notre jean brut en toile japonaise Kurabo

Notre jean brut en toile japonaise Kurabo

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

Chemise en chambray japonais

Chemise en chambray japonais

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

Chemise col italien pour homme – BonneGueule

Chemise col italien pour homme - BonneGueule

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

La chemise kaki nid d’abeille BonneGueule

La chemise kaki nid d’abeille BonneGueule

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

BonneGueule x National Standard : BGNS-01, des sneakers …

BonneGueule x National Standard : BGNS-01, des sneakers ...

Source: www.bonnegueule.fr

BonneGueule.fr – Forum View topic

BonneGueule.fr - Forum View topic

Source: forum.bonnegueule.fr

Vidéo : dans le vestiaire d’Orelsan

Vidéo : dans le vestiaire d'Orelsan

Source: www.bonnegueule.fr

Japan Expo Sud 2012 : le bilan…

Japan Expo Sud 2012 : le bilan...

Source: layla.over-blog.fr