William, who develops the France-made shirts brand Emmanuel Berg (brand to the German original), offered to get tested its products. While it is true that before that you had been talked of several similar services tailored shirts.
But we had not yet had the opportunity to feel (really) high-end elsewhere than in ready-to-wear. It is now done (and it is always useful to have an overview to be able to judge then the interest of this or that mark in the entry and the mid-range).
Specify we stay here in affordable customized: I will speak not of great extent (= true “to measure” purists) where a bib is first made to your measure (with a hefty price tag output).Here one remains on custom made-to-measure, with an already existing plastron which is retouched accordingly.
You will see that I deliberately chose a cut shirt in a cotton patterned history of fun and a change of white, gray and blue shirts (especially since I no longer work in a company with codes Strict clothing: this is the reverse now …).
As you see in the photo, it is a kind of liberty print in less floral and more airy. The Liberty is a widely printed in women but used much less humans. The name comes from the London department store Liberty & Co which widely popularized this motif in the early 20th century.
Here are some examples:
I will say that in practice, it’s a bit the female equivalent of paisley, oriental motif that we sometimes meet on ties or scarves:
How to wear a shirt with prints?
But back to the floral prints: it’s actually quite feminine and loaded. And I did not go look for the most printed liberty girly.
The one I chose is fairly airy: I would say that it is a happy medium (although I am not sure that one can really qualify the fabric that I chose of “liberty” print).
On patterns of the tailor’s fabric, patterns can be frightening. Yet it is easy to incorporate into an outfit:
- print is easier to wear layering like that the ground surface is less and it shows less simply
- break the female side of the pattern with decidedly masculine clothes : a nice suit, mesh or the beard of 3 days,
- mitigate the pattern is still in the same range of color, or with gray,
- not bid with other reasons otherwise lead to an outfit that causes seizures kittens .
Test of the custom-made shirt Emmanuel Berg
Big Fat Quality
This is clearly the most qualitative shirt I could see, there is still a bit above Melinda Gloss or The Human Comedy. The design is extremely precise and all the details of the high-end shirt are there.
The collar is particularly very clean. In passing know that the inside of a collar (its assembly) is indicative of the quality of a shirt. On the entry level the inside of the neck is stiffened by a piece of cardboard. When climbing in the range one finds then liners with an additional layer of poplin or sometimes a somewhat thicker canvas.
And on very high-end, the collar is made up of several parts inside, like a blazer with interlinings.Be careful not to believe that an irregular inside collar is a sign of poor quality.
A good cut but a hair set back from the extreme quality of the assembly
The cut of the shirt is also satisfactory. For all that, it may be a tailor-made shirt, but it is not the shirt that will suit you the best.
This shirt will be very useful to me it responds to a small morphological defect that I have: a neck strong enough that the shirts to the right size shoulders rarely close to the neck or choke me a little.
Notice also the “textured” effect of the pattern when seen from a little further.
Update article : I forgot to mention but I lost 3 or 4 kilos between taking action and the photo shoot . A relativiser therefore because the shirt remains very well cut to the shoulders and the pectorals, where the variations of weight have little influence.
And once the shirt is received, it is modified if necessary to make it perfect. For example, mine must be slightly recinted (it must be said that losing 4kgs it removes a few cms to the belly) and maybe shortened arms. Which means that the second one will be perfect.
Finally, if the first one is missed, Emmanuel Berg remakes it at his own expense if it is not possible to bring him to the retoucher. After that is not the case with all the online blouses, so check before ordering how it happens if you do not like the shirt that is delivered to you.
Ready-to-wear VS made-to-measure
The experience of this cut me pretty perspective on the so-called perfection of bespoke VS approximation of ready-to-wear is a myth to me unless you go to the tailors . Indeed there are one or two brands of ready-to-wear that fit me better than the custom-made. Then there are some who may say “but the blouse has done his job badly”. And I reply: “Not at all”.
Whether you go with a blouse or a custom-brand ready-to-wear, you agree in both cases a stylistic bias as to the artisan or the brand. The complete set of your measurements will never give the same shirt to all tailors, as some give ease to one place or another, others have very close biases, et cetera. But you always go a little blindly, because it is the tailor who decides in the end.
Conversely, with ready-to-wear, if the choice is rigid, you know in any case where you go because you try the garment. To you then find you the brand that fits your morphology testing everywhere.
As for the cost argument, it does not hold. The PAP and the SM (except master tailors and big houses) are now kiffe kiffe to level of equal quality: it is thus finally a choice to make according to your needs:
- PAP will find more “fashion” products, out of the classic dress shirts reviewed by Writingles, and know directly what you buy.
- SM will go through against your correct some morphological defects if they are out-box ready-to-wear, like, “I find no shirt with arms long enough,” or” when the farm neck shirt, the rest of the shirt is too big . ” Note also a greater choice on colors and fabrics, but a smaller choice on the variety of cuts.
I think we can say this is the most high-end jacket that has been tested to date .
In the end, the price is indeed expensive (179 € for this one), we do not hide. But the price remains honest with regard to the service of tailor-made and the extreme quality of finishes. It is essentially the choice of fabric that will affect the price, the entry-level on simpler (but already very qualitative) poplin starts at 130 €, the price of a high-end shirt in the PAP.
Concretely, William (son of Alain Figaret) moves to Paris and near the suburbs to take your measurements, and the shirt is then delivered to you. The home measurement service is always available. Or you can have yours taken by someone who knows about it (be careful: taking measurements is not invented, and it is not especially done in front of his mirror!) And send them to William (Our site). More info here .