Marchand Drapier Chemise

The shirt seen by BonneGueule and … Marchand Dapier

How should a BonneGueule shirt be? The question is more complicated than it looks … We wanted a course easy shirt to wear in all circumstances, but always with that little something extra (” to make a basic garment but not boring”  as Said Geoffrey).

It was necessary to wear this shirt with a suit or chino, that it go with all your wardrobe, while being recognizable at first glance. Not easy to do, and I could already see myself erasing some criteria of the specifications by telling me that “it was not going to do it”.

Marchand Drapier , we talked about it some time ago, we seemed to be the perfect creator, as we had several opportunities to see his shop was full of dress shirts, but with a small relaxation that pleased us well. The brand never takes itself too seriously, because there is sometimes a touch of humor in the clothes, for those who know how to observe attentively (take a closer look at the paintings of Jouy).

So we went to see Benoit Carpentier, the founder of the brand, in his offices. And the first disagreement quickly appeared …

The subjects: we did not agree …

I remember very well: when Geoffrey and I were in Benoît Carpentier’s office for a day in March, he had put before us his thick sketchbook with fabrics pinned to the pages. Very quickly, a cloth that resembles an oxford, but in addition dressed, caught my attention.

It was exactly what I wanted: a fabric casual basis, but with a more noble made with a high quality of yarn . I was convinced it was a fabric that would go as well with a chino as with a suit, unlike a classic oxford, much too casual to be worn with a suit. There was just one problem with this material: its rendering would be very complicated to take pictures …

Except that … Geoffrey preferred another fabric, a nice silky poplin, but with geometric motifs (it’s his little obsession with art deco). Simple patterns, but with a touch of originality. I will also let Geoffrey express himself on the choice of this fabric:

Geoffrey : I liked the blue oxford cloth, but I wanted something stronger in terms of style. A beautiful blue shirt is very good … but what if we look for something easy to wear but really more stylish for the summer? Something that subtly enhances a look once you’ve gone beyond the basics stage?

So I opted for these small blue navy patterns, which give body to an outfit when viewed at more than one meter.

In addition, I find that their geometry and that of the collar of the shirt agree. So I resisted the threats of Benedict if one did not choose the blue oxford, while preparing for an armed conflict.

The result is very easy to wear: those who start do not necessarily realize, but it is just as easy to wear as me any classic shirt .

Benoit : I felt so come the big debate on the choice of materials, ” but I like very much this oxford is beautiful and easy to wear ,” ” no, but I love the grounds, it changes a little, prefer this fabric oxford “,” yes but I want my oxford “.

Benoît Carpentier, behind his desk, began to sketch a smile and simply said to us:

“We’ll make two models!”

And that’s why there are two models:

  • the BGMD-01 in a pretty blue oxford, but is silky and dressed informally dubbed the model “Benoit”
  • the BGMD-02 in a poplin patterned changing a simple white shirt, unofficially dubbed the model “Geoffrey”

The BGMD-01, worn with a tie and a jacket Husband (brand that I love, but that’s another story) .Other close-ups later. And for once, I have my sunglasses in my hand.

Benoit Carpentier, in (very nice) jacket, tie, shirt BGMD-01 and trousers Marchand Drapier. By the way, you have the proof by the image that blue tuxedo jackets (and more generally blue tuxedos) are underestimated in the current male wardrobe!

Yes, do not worry about your accessories, everything will go very well!

Change of atmosphere with BGMD-02 range very casually

(and with which Geoffrey pulls in much better picture than me)

A purely “packshot” picture to give you an idea of the length of the sleeves and the shirt if you want to wear it off the trousers  The fact that the rounding of the bottom of the shirt goes up high enough was a wish of Benoit Carpentier, because he likes this tailor.

But the famous collar then?

I come, I come … For my part, it was clear that I absolutely did not want a classic collar. This was also the case with Geoffrey. Then Benoit Carpentier has emerged from its archives a pass he had invented but had not operated in its latest collections. That was exactly what we wanted!

The famous collar with a silk tie Husband. If you click on the image, you will see that Rachel, our photographer, managed to capture the texture and the color in picture.

Benoit Carpentier (Marchand Drapier) had first developed this collar to have something that frames a tie knot. But it was first without a tie that we tried it and that we had a real blow of heart. Our shirt was getting more and more shaped!

On the BGMD-01 (the light blue model), the neckband is made of white fabric, which brings out the shape of the collar when worn without a tie …

Some people remarked to me that it looked like a shirt collar from Ozwald Boateng. The comparison is rather flattering, but it is not quite the case. A Boateng collar is tapered at the bottom of the collar, at the tip, while our collar is tapered on the top.

The cup

I assure you it is a difficult question we had to dig the head: how to cut a BonneGueule shirt?We did not want a shirt that was much too tight because our frequent meetings with our customers and the recent survey we conducted recently allowed us to see that among our readers there were not only fine people, far from there.

From there, Benoit Carpentier (the founder of Merchant Drapier, as I recall) offered us a Slim Fit specially developed for us  (developed on the basis of some of our shirts which we liked a lot the cuts) that we loved At the first fitting. It is fitting as it should in the pectoral, the cut is not tight at the level of the belly. Perfect for us!

Otherwise, it was possible to ensure that the size MGMD normally . For example, Geoffrey usually wears S and 46 in jacket, so he has an S size for his shirt. As far as I’m concerned, I wear 48 jackets, and I wear a size M.

When? And at what price?

Orders will open Tuesday, May 14th at 19:30 . As usual, only registered to receive the newsletter in the first link to the sales page . If you are registered with the newsletter (and you have already received emails from us), you have nothing to do. The others, sign up at the top right.

As for the price, the BGMD-01 and the BGMD-02 will be much cheaper than the usual prices of Marchand Drapier, which we thank for making a big effort on this side (and I assure you that no brand Likes to lower its prices, if only for its brand image).

And this time we have commissioned a reasonable amount (200 copies for blue and 100 white patterned), but was still surprised after the rush on sneakers, so I do not know how long they remain available .

Carswers.com: Shirt size chart will obviously be communicated on the order page, with all measurements (from XS to XL) to help you choose the right size, so do not worry

So I give you appointment Tuesday, May 14th at 19:30 on the newsletter.

See you soon on the other side,

Gallery

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Y-Lan dans le Jardin Albert Kahn

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Source: www.trendymood.com