Saint Sens, a French made shirt brand, bought by the same group as the Menlook e-commerce site. This name may be telling you something: Saint Sens had already been the subject of a previous test. Rest assured, we will not make you a repeat, but introduce you more thoroughly the brand, its know-how, the quality of fabrics and garment to recognize a quality shirt.Especially since the production was repatriated in France, without significant increase in prices.
The shirt that makes sense
Since 2005, Saint Sens made the tailored shirt online. From year to year, they have improved to offer a high-quality shirt of good quality.
I know that many of you are afraid to take the plunge. Either because one feels a little lost when choosing fabrics, collar, wrists and more when it comes to taking its measurements. In short, it can quickly become annoying and discouraging.
What is the interest then?
Well, it is quite simple, to have a shirt well fitted, which has a beautiful fell. Yes we mainly speak of fallen for the costumes, but we must not neglect the fallen of the shirt. The interest is double when you have a morphology that does not fit in the standardized profiles of ready-to-wear: like the rugbyman very strong (who feels sponsored by Eden Park).
Facilitate remote control as much as possible
Saint Sens tries to respond to this degree of ambient uncertainty that makes you dare not take the plunge. If you are not satisfied with your measurements (or you have made a mistake when taking measurements), Saint Sens offers you free to readjust it to pay the postage.
Saint Sens and will soon offer a new service: make your custom shirt from your favorite shirt (launch within 3 months). It avoids any tearing of hair untimely, annoyances and so on, which cause that we discourage. To do this, just send them your fetish shirt and they take care of everything. You can even tell them to remove a few centimeters in some places from the shirt. I think this is clearly the best way to proceed in terms of measuring and precision cutting.
Of course, you have beforehand the elements of customization of your future shirt to choose:
- The fabrics and patterns: a wide selection of about 290 different references
- The neck: a range of about twenty different collars
- Wrists: 1 button, 2-button cuffs
- And even the ability to embroider your initials and / or choose a lining inside the collar and cuffs (but beware of the foul taste: you can quickly get out of hand, especially with Liberty fabrics)
You can also choose the type of grooves, buttons (emphasize mother-of-pearl buttons of course even though you can opt for colored resins buttons for more casual shirts) and the type of back bending clip.
You will have understood the customization is quite rich. But beware: too much customization kills customization. Because one can quickly fall into the too much or bad taste. Never forget that a shirt is first and foremost a garment synonymous with elegance. All you have to do is let yourself be guided and you will receive your shirt in 2 weeks. Saint Sens, this is ( you can test on the site of Saint-Sens ).
Saint Sens: is this the right cam?
We do it
The material: cotton
The shirts Saint Sens are 100% cotton, on this price range is the basis. There are two types of cotton:
The Sea Island cotton has the longest cotton fiber in the world (up to 52 mm), it has a silky touch and is extremely thin. This single cotton is harvested by hand and then treated with extreme care. Today, it accounts for more than 5% of world production.
The Egyptian cotton is renowned for enabling the manufacture of silky fabrics, refined and strong. The term “Egyptian cotton” refers to both a particular species of Egyptian cotton and a mode of agriculture which preserves the quality of cotton fiber. Egyptian cotton is not necessarily produced in Egypt but must be grown in a special environment: in areas with hot days and cool nights. It is also distinguished by the length of its fibers and represents only 1% of world production.
Beyond their rarity, these types of cotton are guarantees of quality as their main feature is that the cotton fiber is long. And the longer the fibers, the finer they are, and the more the yarn obtained (and consequently the fabric) will have good characteristics in the face of abrasion, twisting and washing. This will allow the fabric of the shirt to better age and last in time.
The Italian suppliers of Saint Sens use cotton harvested in Egypt for the “Elite” and “Luxe” ranges of Saint Sens (with prices of shirts of 139, 169 and 229 euros). The fabric comes from large houses like Albini and Thomas Mason. Why ? For example, Thomas Mason performs several washes during the manufacturing process, which considerably reduces the washing and shrinking of the future shirt. As much to say you will not find Egyptian cotton at entry level. And still less Sea Island cotton which is still very expensive (besides, Saint Sens does not offer in its collection).
The different fabrics / weaves for a shirt
Poplin is the result of a weaving a finer warp yarn as the weft yarn. The fabric is therefore more silky and generally used for dress shirts. Saint Sens uses mostly fabrics (whether plain or patterned) resulting from this technique.
The oxford is a weaving technique which uses colored weft thread and a warp thread white, which gives this effect of small patterns. It is slightly thicker than poplin and has a characteristic of being a soft and resistant fabric. You will find this type of fabric on more casual shirts and American collars (collar whose collar points are buttonhole).
The wire to wire is a weave 2 alternating colors son. This gives a mini grid. This technique of weaving is found on plain shirts, which gives them a more modern style.
The twill has a structure (or armor) special diagonally, like the jeans . You never noticed that your jeans are easier to iron? Well it is partly thanks to this weaving. It is also a soft and silky fabric.
Chevron is a close enough weave twill, recognizable by its diagonal weave. It is also supple and very silky. This kind of weave is ideal for giving depth to the color of the shirt.
The Joint is a weaving technique combining twill and poplin or oxford and honeycomb (little used in shirt but it exists), etc …
Although Saint Sens uses mostly poplin, you can direct your choice on these other types of weaving. Note that the more regular weaving, the more qualitative the fabric. The length of the cotton fibers affects the regularity of a fabric, hence the importance of selecting quality cotton as Saint Sens can do. On the other hand, like the mesh, the softness of the fabric does not mean anything about its quality.
The quality criteria of a fabric
A quality shirt comes from a double twisted yarn fabric. To distinguish it from the simple retor, you will find that the fabric of the shirt will be more silky and more pleasant to the touch.
So you will also keep your shirt longer: 2 threads are better than 1. Let’s be honest, do not expect to see a double twisted yarn at the entry level at Saint Sens at 59 euros or at another brand (like Zara for example even if the price / quality ratio is correct): there are incompressible costs , And offering this type of wire is one.
Titration also affects the quality . The titration is the unit of measurement for determining the fineness of a wire. For short fibers such as cotton, the unit used is the English number.Concretely the higher the number, the more fine and tight the thread. Between 80 and 90, one can estimate that the fabric is of quality and between 160 and 200, the fabric is very very good quality. Attention in this case, the price of the shirt may fly away!
Even if the fabric can be of quality, certain details can be neglected for various reasons, often in a concern for profitability of the brand. On high-end shirts, have a requirement and linger on details that are revealing of a real quality shirt. In other words, check if the shirt is worth its price!
The collar of the shirt
The collar is typically THE detail that should not be neglected. On a top-of-the-line dress shirt, require that the collar be rigid and that it includes whales (removable or not) so that the points of the collar do not rebiquire. No compromise on that, okay?
What is a quality collar? A collar mounted with a 100% cotton interlining. The interlining is a triple thickness as the name indicates. Concretely, we have the underside of the collar, the top and the interlining (a thercollant fabric that comes to stick between the two under the action of heat). A quality interlining must be woven. And when it is posed one should not see “bubbles” on the collar, even after washing (although it always ends at a time by appearing).
Note that there are unglued interlining but they are much more difficult to maintain and require a special ironing technique. As a result, they are much less used today even if they are of superior quality.
It’s a bit technical, but the fact that the first two layers of fabric are woven together will have a real impact on the quality of the cervix. If the interlining is of quality, your cervix will be smooth and will not have small bubbles on the surface of the cervix (both on the spot and on the wrong side). And it is often on the reverse that one sees this type of defect appear (always return a collar henceforth).
Moreover, a better quality of neck will age over time, after a few washes the average quality shirts or downright cheap , defects (bubbles and curled effect) will multiply after a few washes.On this type of collar, the interlining is not woven and therefore the use of the thermally bonded fabric is more widespread. And the glue does not like too much heat (washing for example).
They must be as close and regular as possible. The number of stitches per cm must be as high as possible (5 or 6 points per cm, it starts to be fine). One does not always pay attention to this detail but compare a shirt of low or medium quality and a high-end shirts, you will see the difference. And this also applies to buttonholes.
The fineness of the assembly of a shirt testifies to its solidity. When wearing a shirt, like any other garment, mechanical stresses are created and these concentrate especially at the joints between the different parts of the fabric. Hence the importance of a quality assembly (tight and regular points) between the different parts of a shirt (front, back, shoulders, arms, collar and cuffs).
The test of the shirt
Let us now turn to the test of the shirt. The site gives you pretty practical hints if you choose to take your measurements from one of your shirts.
My shirt is equivalent to mid-range at Saint Sens. It is quite priced, 79 euros for the choice of fabric + 2 paid options (thick buttons in mother-of-pearl: 7.90 euros + collar and white cuffs: 19.80 euros). Which gives a shirt to a little more than 105 euros.
Let’s start with the worst. I find that the shirt is a large coat at the shoulders and it could better fall to the back. Yet I took the measurements from a shirt that falls well, in short a fitted shirt that suits me well. I think my little disappointment comes from the fact that the shirt Saint Sens has a more traditional cut, halfway between the straight cut and the slim cut.
Even if Saint Sens can rectify this kind of small adjustment, I advise you to take your measurements on shirts of the same kind as the one you order.
I also find that the armhole could be a little more adjusted. Certainly, I do not have big arms but it would deserve a cut more adapted, especially to refine the silhouette.
For the rest, nothing to report, the collar is perfectly adjusted, the length of the sleeves is good and the armhole is well mounted. Neither too high nor too low compared to underarms to ensure comfort in movement
I chose a shirt in light blue poplin with the cuffs and the white collar (narrow collar to the passage). I had a very good impression. The popeline is soft and silky, one sees at once the benefit of weaving in double twists. It is a really nice shirt to wear. In short, it is a quality fabric that catches the light. As I said earlier in the article, Saint Sens uses beautiful fabrics.
Side finishes, I find them very correct. The points are regular on all parts of the shirt (7 points per cm). I also find that the sleeves, collar and cuffs are well mounted. Moreover, the interlacing of the collar and the wrists are equally well executed.
As you can see, I chose an American Gorge which is also very clean. And the buttons are of mother of pearl of good quality. Anecdotally, Benoit had already tested a shirt Saint Sens me spontaneously said they had improved the quality of the buttonhole. A very good point therefore!
Note the care taken to mount the collar (interlining): there are no bubbles, it is smooth.
All top-of-the-range details are present on this shirt, except the reinforcing swallow. But it exists on the high-end shirts of Saint Sens.
How to make a formal shirt more relaxed?
I wanted to tell you a little more about this point that was close to my heart. Very often, one refrains to wear shirts apparently too dressed. I will go even further: many men do not dare wear ties for fear of quickly resembling a banker. In summary, a style too strict in which one does not feel at ease.
When you wear a dress shirt, and want to make it less strict, you must know how to assemble it with the right pieces.
Obviously, this tie is a personal choice. This is an example perhaps a bit extreme to show you that you can also have fun. You can also wear knitted, with patterns, the choice is quite wide.(Re) reading the very good article by Rémi on the tie man if you want to know more.
And if you’re not a fan of ties, go for the summer scarf, the scarf, the scarf or the snood (a scarf assembled in the shape of a tube). The Exception offers a nice selection and I guarantee that with a blazer and a shirt, this is the most beautiful effect ?
Verdict on my shirt Saint Sens
Intrinsically, it is a shirt of good quality. The brand repatriated all its production in France to continue to progress on its know-how and quality of manufacture. The spontaneous comments of Benoit on the shirt go in this direction. I think that in the future they will progress by proposing shirts more adjusted, especially at the armhole. They really are in this logic of improving their products. See Educationvv for how to iron a shirt for men.
When we met them they were really waiting for sincere returns. Something that I have never seen anywhere but would hold me very much to heart, it would be to be able to choose 3 widths of armholes … and possibly the height of the armpits. To me a brand that would make it really differentiates in terms of customization: it is probably less ” sexy ” for the average customer and more subtle than offering 30 colors and 15 types of buttons neck (what you see Much on the net), but that would be a real plus for demanding customers on the cut. In short, the real interest of customizations, more than their quantity.
Aside from, my concern with the waist, I was globally seduced by this shirt. Do not hesitate to send us your feedback if you order a Saint Sens shirt.