The idea of an oxford shirt came very early in the history of the line BonneGueule, almost simultaneously with our idea of chambray shirt because, as you know, we love the casual shirts. And you know, this is a classic in humans  as the uses of Oxford are many; Whether worn with a suit or at the seaside, sleeves rolled up and feet in the water.

But it was not until nearly a year and a half after the release of the BonneGueule Line that our shirt in Oxford was born.

Why so long for this garment a priori  simple?

Because “it took time to answer a simple question: “What added value would be made on this type of room with the market already well?”. Because proposing a shirt in oxford simply because one needs one does not stick with our philosophy!

So it was with the heavy task of finding an Oxford having “that something extra” that Alexander began his research work.

And you’ll see, it’s an ancestral garment that has a beautiful story!

Flashback (very) fast on the oxford shirt

Originally, the oxford shirt is a formal garment worn by English high society who preferred to poplin, more fragile and less breathable.

Then, in the 1930s, polo players began wearing these thick and comfortable shirts. His image changes then become the play casual  we know.

In parallel, students from US universities it by force, essential to any wardrobe shirt preppy:  this is the shirt for boys of the elite but at the same time, it retains this connotation slightly rebellious (hey, it is OK, it’s still a degree below the punk in potential rebellion).

It was then the turn of the weavers to be illustrated by their vision of oxford … and a rendering much more “granular” and textured. It is far from the formal shirt beginnings because it piggybacks then the universe workwear.

Why choose Emanuel Lang for this shirt?

We entrusted the production of these fabrics Emanuel Lang is an Alsatian weaver over 160 years , specializing in the manufacture of original and inventive oxford.

And this is  the last French industrial textile weaving shirts materials.

You will see that this workshop has a history particularly turbulent. Next to that, Apple’s looks like a health walk.

At the heart of a historical basin of French textile

In 1856, Emanuel Lang founded a weaving workshop in the South of Alsace. This is not a detail since this area is a historic basin of the French textile industry, which Mulhouse is the center of gravity.

Indeed, Alsace has always been the crossroads of many cultures (Celtic, Roman, barbaric …), and a region rich in hydraulic, mining, agricultural and technical resources.

Mulhouse was a very prosperous city, and was still in 1798, the end of the Republic of Mulhouse, and year of attachment to France.

During its history, the city has received the brunt of the situation of independent city (since 1275), either at the small industrial revolution (that of hydro and wind power: the emblem of the city of Elsewhere a water mill wheel) or the great industrial revolution (Mulhouse called “Manchester French” or “the town with 100 chimneys”).

These revolutions led to others: new academic modes, social capitalism, chemistry, and many inventions around mechanics. Muhlouse is the cradle of Schlumberger (looms and machine tools), Tiscali, and even the American manufacturer Boeing which was inspired by Aviatik, builder of mulhousien airplanes.

So if you go to Mulhouse, do not miss its technical museums: it is the European city which counts the most (and the 2nd French city for the national museums): museums of train, electricity, Printing on cloth, firemen, or automobile, are unavoidable.

Life, death and resurrection of Emanuel Lang

Textile know-how has been handed down over generations, and the Alsatians are very proud of it (ask Geoffrey!). To give you an idea, it is the same relation that exists between the Scots and the whiskey, or the Basques with the Basque cake and the Bayonne ham.

Emanuel Lang yet almost never blow his 160th candle. Through this SME, it is a part of the history of French industry that is told.

We are at the beginning of 2000, the French textile industry is dying, partly because of the cheap Asian competition, capable of a similar quality fabric for much, much cheaper.

Unable to align, the French textile industries are in danger of being forced to change their economic model in order to escape disappearance.

As in all of Alsace, the waves of redundancies succeed one another. Almost all Group sites close in 2003, with the exception of one, which momentarily retains activity.

In 2009, the creation and weaving workshops underwent a liquidation plan, and further redundancies were necessary to avoid definitively closing the company.

And here is the drama. We learn in the Alsatian Press that the group will once again enter into liquidation, weakened by rising cotton prices. The machines must be sold at auction and the definitive closure of the site is no longer in doubt.

Several plans of redemption are evoked before fail, one after the other. The closure is imminent and the vultures fly over the site. For ten months, the only activity of the employees will be to protest against the sale of the machines.

And then, at the end of 2013, the company finds a new buyer. An agreement that nobody dared hope is concluded, the company then escapes from very little to bankruptcy and found few customers.

Today, the historic company is an SME of about twenty people. Rather than run out to provide poplin that will never be cheaper than its competitors low cost , leads a real depth reflection on what it can do differently: “What we may be the only What can we do that no one else can do? ”

And so it will develop a true creativity in so-called tissue “shirts weight”: instead of providing a poplin view and review on which it is very difficult to offer real added value, Emanuel Lang goes further in The construction of its collections.

To be frank, it was a very nice discovery because I thought that only the Japanese were able to show such creativity! Their fabrics are very textured, rough, or with fairly impressive woven patterns.

Efforts will pay, as it will begin to provide several well-known brands in high-end ready-to-wear.

And for the record, Geoffrey grew up 15km from Hirsingue, stronghold of Emanuel Lang. This collaboration therefore has a symbolic value for us.

Why this collaboration?

As has been mentioned, Emanuel Lang shows great creativity in the creation of oxford fabrics.

By collaborating with them, we benefit from the expertise of a very old French textile actor.

Furthermore, Emanuel Lang is part of the business combination ” Alsace Terre textile”, which identifies companies that illustrate a specific expertise, respecting a tradition and have their production facilities in the region.

It is a kind of “controlled industrial designation” which ensures that customers buy a “local” product that has been designed in compliance with environmental, social and ecological standards (note that there are also other groups Of the “Vosges Terre textile” type).

In addition, our oxford is certified Oeko-Tex Standard 100, which guarantees the absence of any harmful product in its tissues.

The Alsatian textile know-how

The creativity of Emanuel Lang comes from the daily tests on the mixes of threads, or on the new “armors” by combining very specific warp and weft threads.

This knowledge is very valuable and allows to create without limit new subjects.

Emanuel Lang also has unique machines in the world (yes, you read correctly, some machines of its production facilities are not found anywhere else). These same machines that had almost fallen into the hands of buyers …

But the know-how of Emanuel Lang intervenes in all stages of the manufacturing process: from the creation of collections, to weaving techniques and finishing.

You should know that the oxford cloth is woven in a very particular way: two vertical son blue (channel son called) are crossed with a white horizontal wire (called weft). This is called asemi-basket weave. Do not worry, everything is explained in the video!

Christian Didier, currently Managing Director of Emanuel Lang, wanted to preserve the secrets of his oxford. But facing our insistence, he still wanted to tell us more!

One of the most important elements is the quality selection son: the son come from Spain, Switzerland, Italy and even in northern France. Christian runs many son’s salons (notably the well-known Filo salon in Milan) for the best.

In addition, on a oxford, the decisive factor is the quality of the weft thread (white, which is a twisted thread on our oxford) and how it is interlaced with the warp son.

Indeed, besides yarns, it is the technique of weaving (thanks to the unique machines in the world) that makes it possible to give the oxford a soft hand and a visual rendering very particular. But here, it is the magic recipe of which Christian did not want to reveal the secrets. He will merely refer to it in his video interview. It is the cult of secrecy version Emanuel Lang.

The material that has just been woven is said to have “fallen from the craft” (in other words, raw). It must then take him to the finisher to the last step, the ennoblissage (or finishing). This will make it possible to fix the material and give it its final hand. It is during this stage that all impurities and residual waste are removed in the cotton.

Emanuel Lang works with an ennoblisseur of the region called ETC (Ennoblissement Technique de Cernay), based in Cernay therefore, 30 minutes by car from Hirsingue. You can not do more local!

Luxury, calm and voluptuousness

For this shirt, Emanuel Lang uses a particularly thick weft thread, which gives it a regular texture.

The final rendering is neither too rough nor too smooth. By touch, the material is softer than a classic poplin. The hand is soft with relief, however, between the “grain” characteristic of Japanese fabrics and sobriety to the French .

We wanted to get away from the world preppy American (loose cuts, the pleat in the back, it does not tell us too). That’s why we chose our neck button-down usual hidden. Yes, it is the same as our two chambray shirts! It’s a collar that will stay in place no matter what, while looking like a classic French collar-no need to get out of Yale to wear our shirt.

The Oxford reinvented shirt

For this shirt, we wanted to stay true to the image of the oxford shirt: a shirt gentle, comfortable and durable. The kind of shirt that evokes immediately the quality, which one has pleasure to put,

Two colors: one sky blue and one light gray

According to ScienceDict.com, an oxford shirt could not do without offering a clear blue, the color of oxford par excellence. I will not argue about the interest of having a pile of blue shirts in his wardrobe, I have already treated this point up and down

The light blue oxford brings a touch of relaxation with a costume, and an elegant and timeless note in looks much more casual (chino, sober sneakers, etc.).

The choice of the second color made the debate: Geoffrey did not want a white oxford, and I wanted something at least as easy to wear as white, you can imagine the stormy conversations! We found a consensus with light gray, color finally fairly represented, but that goes very well with strong colors.

How to choose your shirt size?

The sizing is very classic, just take your usual size! I know I say this every time, but it’s as simple as that!

Gallery

La chemise élégante en oxford blanc

La chemise élégante en oxford blanc

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

La chemise élégante en oxford blanc

La chemise élégante en oxford blanc

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

La chemise élégante en oxford blanc

La chemise élégante en oxford blanc

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

La chemise élégante en oxford rayé

La chemise élégante en oxford rayé

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

Ligne Bonne Gueule

Ligne Bonne Gueule

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

Pantalon Prince de Galles Loro Piana navy

Pantalon Prince de Galles Loro Piana navy

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

Marque BonneGueule

Marque BonneGueule

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

Chemise en flanelle de coton grise

Chemise en flanelle de coton grise

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

white casual summer shirt | for love | Pinterest

white casual summer shirt | for love | Pinterest

Source: www.pinterest.com

10 vêtements pour un été stylé

10 vêtements pour un été stylé

Source: www.masculin.com

Veste bleu navy déperlante, respirante, infroissable

Veste bleu navy déperlante, respirante, infroissable

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

La chemise en oxford gris

La chemise en oxford gris

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

La chemise en oxford bleu

La chemise en oxford bleu

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

chemise oxford marchand drapier en collaboration avec …

chemise oxford marchand drapier en collaboration avec ...

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

chemise oxford marchand drapier en collaboration avec …

chemise oxford marchand drapier en collaboration avec ...

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

La chemise élégante en oxford blanc

La chemise élégante en oxford blanc

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

Ligne Bonne Gueule

Ligne Bonne Gueule

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

Chemise en flanelle de coton grise

Chemise en flanelle de coton grise

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

Ligne Bonne Gueule

Ligne Bonne Gueule

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr

Chemise épaisse Kuwamura

Chemise épaisse Kuwamura

Source: shop.bonnegueule.fr