When I was in California, land of jeans, I bought some new pants. One of them is made with a raw denim that is unsanforized, meaning it was not sanforizado.

How to Shrink Your Unsanforized Raw Denim

This means that it is made with a denim so raw that neither went through the process of sanforização we pre-shrink the cotton fabric. So, will decrease more than normal when I wash it for the first time.

Let the jeans do not sanforizado sauce before you start to use is a good one. Imagine if ojeans pick up that faded pretty that we want to before it is pre shrunk. The marks of use may change from place in the time that you wash. The pants shrinks mostly in length… imagine the brand of your knee up to the thigh.

People buy the jeans as well because this is another one of the details of the raw denim that recall a golden era of the selvedge,. Is the jeans and the way it was done when the Levis invented the first trousers. It preserves all its irregularities the original, but you need to have some care at the time of purchase. I decided to put this pants of the sauce, and document the difference of the final result and give some tips for you, gives there!

1. Unsanforized Denim (Before)

The jeans sanforizado is the denim that has been subjected to the process of sanforização. It is a common process in which fabrics are pre-shrunk before being cut and sewn. In addition to shrink the jeans also, some steps of the process will also remove irregularities.

The jeans that I’m going to shrink is a Levi’s Vintage Clothing 501 model 1933. It is the reproduction of the Levi’s made a pair of pants from the 30’s, full of details of the season. This line, called LVC, is a specialist in historical models of the pants 501, such as reproductions of 1966 and 1944, all unsanforized.

The denim of the pants comes really gross, in a state of newly-woven fabric. The seller informed me that when she’s going to shrink between 2.5 and 5 cm in length after the first wash, depending on the water temperature and how long to stay on it.

This photo above is of the pants before I wet. Repairs in the length observing the height of the bending bar. Let’s see how that will change after wet!

2. The first “bath” of my jeans unsanforized

To put your jeans of the sauce, start by turning it inside out to minimize the loss of indigo.

Then, fill a bathtub of water. If you do not have a bath, can be a bucket, tank, or even the sink. It makes no difference the jeans to be stretched, or not, since it is fully submerged.

The temperature of the water determines how much it will shrink. The hotter, the greater the effect. If you are unsure, it is best to start with a cold-water bath. Then, wait for the jeans to dry, and if necessary, put to soak again. I put the water as warm as possible.

As here in Brazil we do not have the custom of washing with hot water, you can even consider skipping this sauce initial, and only wash after which it fade a little. Let me explain better… it has shrinkage from the cold water is lower, the displacement of the fades will be a little. If you are sure that you will never put the pants in warm or hot water, you know that you will not pass it.

Another determining factor is the time. The more time the pant is in the water, the more it shrinks. You can leave between 20 to 40 minutes. I left the maximum to not run the risk of her shrink the next time you wash.

Put the pants to dry. I left them on top of a towel because I was afraid of the blue drip on the floor. A cool tip is to wear wet to do the final drying in the body. It is a ritual so old that theoretically helps to shape the pants. Just take care not to sit on any light surface!

View the pants dry and see how it was. Do not be alarmed if you look good just right at the waist because it will stretch with use. The shrinkage is more in the length. If the jeans are still long, you can do the hem. Never do the hem of your jeans that is not sanforizado before you put it in the water.

Time of the result!

3. After the sauce: The result

In these pictures the jeans are already shrunken.

The main change was the length of the pants. Observes so much so that she was bent on each photo.

It was also a little bit smaller in width. The waist was more fair and the pants don’t need more belt. The thigh and the other dimensions have changed very little. She should give back the measure that I am using.

The water also took a little of gum and of the blue of the indigo. She got softer and lost a bit of “grey”. It’s far more blue and also the fabric seems heavier. This small weight change is normal because it has the same fabric, a length of the minor (is more dense).

Now just use him to pick up the fades, preferably with a little more tan and with a smile on your face, hehe.

Because buy a pair of pants not sanforizada?

The contrast and wear jeans not sanforizado when used can be more interesting. The blue more intense. Has the ritual that in the past many people were before you start to use a pair of pants, at the time that the jeans conquered the symbolism that it has today.

Texture

The denim sanforizado is by far the most popular. It is easier to adjust the size and it has a clean appearance and uniform, more “normal”.

Already the jeans not sanforizado, tends to have a more expensive unfinished. It is irregular, with a surface that resembles wool loose texture, which I think is more cool. These irregularities result in fades pretty cool, as in my jeans 3sixteen.

Customization and fit

It also provides more customization. Can be soaked and be dressed in while shrinking, following the contours of the body. The movie Pitbull has a classic scene where the father character calls the son walking around with wet pants crazy. The son explains “it by fit, father.”

The fabric that really molds to your body is the jeans not sanforizado, which loses the tension of the wires over time. He let loose with their movements in a way far more personal than a jeans sanforizado.

In addition, it can be washed more often and still have high contrast in the marks of use. At least that’s what I noticed as always that wash a raw denim sanforizado it loses more color that a unsanforized. However, it is more likely that it has something to do with the dyeing.

That is, the “advantages” of customization that enchant the whole world of raw denim are easier to get in the jeans that is not sanforizado. Outside of this, it is the same personal preference!

How To Buy Jeans Not Sanforizado

The unsanforized denim is usually more expensive. The brands that work with denim raw this kind usually make the fabric especially for them. To differentiate further, they tend to include details unusual in the weaving. The process leaves the flow, the productivity decreases, and it becomes more expensive to do.

Unlike the jeans, you should buy right at the waist to compensate for the stretching that the use of the back, the jeans that is not sanforizado should be purchased a little bit off. In general, shrink 3 inches in the waist and 5 inches in length. Also suffering a slight change in the width of the legs, a maximum of 2 cm. After you get use to it, it will drop a bit, but the length doesn’t come back.

If you are entering this world, pay attention to buy your raw denim. Read the description of the product and look for the expressions “unsanforized” or “shrink to fit”. They mean that your pants will shrink more than normal.

Don’t be ashamed to ask. Take your questions to not buy a product that wears well in the beginning but will not serve when you see the water. Each jeans has a behavior, then it is good to always ask for a recommendation. If the shop is good, the sellers are prepared will know what you are talking about.

Talk with the store about the reaction of the tissue and plan the final length. Take into account how likes to wear their denim jeans. If it is already short before you shrink, and you like to bend the bar several times, it may be best to choose another.

Search for and read the description of the product at the time of purchase online and listen well the seller of the tag in the time to choose the shoes in the physical store. When you are well informed, and confirm the purchase. You will not regret it!

When you are ready to buy your first raw denim, passes first in the online shop of the blog to see if it has any finding in his size!

Gallery

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