Mark Buxton may be not everyone out there now a term – the perfumes, the German perfumer who created, however. Mark is an icon, even if he niemalsnicht would admit that. He has already fragrances for big fashion houses like Comme des Garcons, Givenchy, Burberry and Cartier created, to you and you with Karl – and Paris, of course, is his home base. His latest scent work is now created in cooperation with Hien Le and Verduu fragrances – and come out it’s first unisex perfume of the Berlin Designer.
After the show, I asked the very charismatic mark on a cigarette and a smell tryst on the porch:
Scalamari: didn’t think that perfumers smoke. This stinks but. What is the best thing that you ever smelled it?
Mark: the hottest smell there at all in the world, is grilled chicken – my parents had a restaurant on the lower rein: Sage and thyme they have prepared with the always – most beautiful memories. My favorite flower is the lily and my favourite perfume, Feminite du Bois by Shiseido. With my grandma here in Germany, I combine the wonderful aroma of freshly ground coffee, black bread and wood-burning stove.
Scalamari: how came you to become a perfumer?
Mark: I did 30 years ago when “betting that?” made with “detect any smell” – we had collected 600 perfumes – terrible stage fright has fail but then my boyfriend and me. Anyway, I got a call from the Haarmann & Reimer a few weeks later – this is the third-largest company in the world that produces flavors and fragrances. After a visit to them and dozens tests later they asked me whether I would like to have the last of 4 courses for their internal school. I wanted it to.
Scalamari: how many of your Guild is there at all? And how long does the training?
Mark: 300 there is in the world – takes 5 years training.
Scalamari: you can get to smell or train?
Mark: definitely. I think everyone might be theoretically with training perfumer. My nose is not better than your nose, but only better trained. What makes a good or bad or middle good perfumer, is at the end of the creativity.
Scalamari: what do you see yourself: visionary? Composer? Artist? Trendsetter?
Mark: I see myself as someone who exerts a normal profession. We sell dreams though, but it is a craft in the first place. We must master the technology once, as with an instrument too. Later, the creativity is added. There are terribly experimental perfumers who try much out – and there is the strictly structured acting out everything according to a fixed scheme.
Scalamari: there are currently fragrance trends?
Mark: oud. Oud has exploded in recent years. An animal product, persistent, strong animal, animal, wildly expensive. A very animalistic scent, a bit like deadened feet. In addition, white flowers are more again in the coming. Orange blossom, ylang – something. I must say, but honestly, I’m not the type who runs trends behind. It should be – conferred always a message as well as for Hien Le now also. We have on him as a person focused as well as his fashion and collection items that under the great theme of tennis clothing of the 60’s and 70’s, the mood, the Embassy and the feeling is – and also who he is, what he likes – I have him for two hours about his favorite scents and tastes are quizzed before we started. Is a
Scalamari: what about your job? What is your work?
Mark: I’m self-employed now Yes. I have a lab, is I work with about 400 products. There are products on the market to the 2000, but when you have this 400 as a base is a good basis for everything and enough. Imagine working a bit like cooking. You have the sauce béarnaise in mind and know about what you need to prepare it. Then you approach it or you’re going wild and try a new sauce. Sometimes you salinated them, then you need to mix everything new.
Scalamari: how many perfumes you have created in your life?
Mark: this will be something to the 3000.
Scalamari: you’re even more love to in the niche world on the move. Did own its own perfume line: it is a niche-friendly country?
Mark: Germany is by far the most niche-friendly country, the strongest market in Europe. Germany is used for perfumery far more open than, for example, the French like forever on her Chanel No. Build 5, Guerlain etc..
Scalamari? What smells like Berlin for you?
Mark: Berlin smells to me very concrete – very cold and a bit wet soil. Right here where we are sitting, so half outdoors on the terrace it smells but conspicuously neutral. I like.
Mark thank you for the lovely interview – I can smell you good
to the SS 16 collection by Hien Le: body the models of the show from the collection of textiles produced colored eyeliner wore elements that Make-Up served as eyes. To a fresh glow face with highlight er cheeks, emphasized eyebrows and much naturalness. The girls wore not only deep Fischgrätzopf and the boys side parting, but also following scents of new perfume.
scent characteristics Hien Le No 1:
top: Cedrat oil, green Mandarin, peppermint, Rosemary, Orange fower
heart: thym, mango, Lilly of the valley, Magnolia leaf, sandal,
Fund: Vetyver, patchouli, musk, amber, Cedar wood Gaiac wood