We had the chance to open the doors of one of the most famous world manufacturers of fabrics, accompanied by Olivier Cothenet, founder of the brand Office Artist.

Above all, who is Olivier Cothenet?

Olivlier Cothenet created the brand of shirts Office Artist, I invite you to discover. He wanted to create a shirt brand for active young people who like to go to work in beautiful clothes (he simply wants to offer the workers formal, effective shirts with a beautiful style made from beautiful fabrics).

I found it very interesting to share this short stay in Italy with an entrepreneur who makes this product (the fabric) its core business (in addition to that, it makes super valves).

A test of the mark can be found in the second part of this article.

The Albini fabric … in Albino

After the visit of the Cerruti spinning in Biella, it was important for us to introduce you to the world of the shirt and above: what is a good fabric? How is the product produced? What is the use of buying a beautiful fabric?

Before answering these questions, a bit of history is needed. Albini is a family house (like many Italian companies) founded in 1876 in Albino, a few kilometers from Bergamo.

Since its creation, the head office remains the same, equipped, year after year, with the best technologies.

At the time, the Albini family moved to Bergamo for two main reasons:

  • The know-how,
  •  Abundance of water quality (important to produce a beautiful fabric).

Today Silvio Albini (5th generation of the founding family) leads the group with his brothers: Fabio, Andrea and Stefano. One feels well this Italian industrial mentality welded to the family. Albini is in the Italian textile, what Barilla is to the food industry, Fiat to the automobile and Beretta to the … guns. The 5th generation is genuinely geared towards creation because every six months, Albini renews its collections (colors, design, products, finishes …).

Their goal is to never stop developing to meet an ever more demanding demand and stay in the race against the emerging markets. According to Silvio Albini: “It is for us to create quality. We must not be guided by the Chinese, Turkish, Indian.”

The group also deploys a lot abroad, with agents present in more than 60 countries. The demands of the customers are clearly different according to the countries and the cultures (Silvio Albini will speak to us in his interview).

Where does Albini’s cotton come from?

According to Albini, a classic cotton sourcing is not enough to make a quality shirt. The final fabric depends too much on the initial quality of the cotton. They have therefore chosen a radical but effective solution: to control production from A to Z.

This makes Albini a fully integrated group, the shoot of cotton in the marketing of tissue.

The group produces 3 kinds of cotton (two Egyptian and Caribbean) and flax (Norman). All crops are handmade in cotton bags to avoid polluting the fibers or risk tearing them.

Cotton is like wine, depending on its treatment or the framework in which it grows, it will give a different fiber. So why does Albini own 3 different cotton farms? Maybe this will illuminate your lantern:

  • Cotton Giza 45: The Giza 45 is grown in the east of the Nile. It accounts for only 0.4% of world cotton production. This area has an ideal climate for growing cotton (warm days and cool nights). The harvested cotton fibers are very fine: 2.80 microns. Despite the fineness of the fiber, it remains extremely resistant. This cotton will make up the best fabrics of the group.
  • Cotton Giza 87: 45 As it is grown along the Nile. Its peculiarity is its softness which lasts, which duuuure. The Albini group promises a virtually non-existent degradation washing after washing. Basically, if you want a soft shirt that does not move, you need Giza 87. It is recognized for its natural brilliance as well.
  • The Sea Island cotton (Caribbean): This represents 0.0004% of global cotton production. Its main feature is its 39 mm fiber length (which is enormous). It is also very soft and resistant.

Each cotton has its specificity and meets a very precise need.

The brands of Albini

Albini is today 4 distinct brands, responding to 4 very different markets:

  • Albini: Specializing in the sophisticated fabric, refined, playing on textures for a simple and effective style.
  • Thomas Mas is: You’ve probably heard this brand which is a reference to the tailors. It is the oldest house that Albini holds today (1796). English house for an English style, the fabrics proposed by Thomas Mason are therefore elegant but also more extravagant. There are strong colors and stripes for example.
  • Albiate: Milanese house acquired in 2000 by the Albini family and meets the demands of a more casual style. So we find denim, jacquard, and fabrics for sports clothes like polo shirts.
  • David & John Anderson: This is the top of the pyramid. If you want to acquire the most prestigious fabric in the world, this is where you have to stop. Indeed, in this house, only the best are selected cottons  (note Benoit: I had the opportunity to reach David & John Anderson tissue, are indeed the finest cotton fabric that I could see: the silkiness of the matter is surreal) .

The titration of cotton

To understand what a high quality fabric is, I will quickly explain what the thread number or titling of the thread is: 120, 120/2, 140/2 …

The first number is the number of skeins of 840 yards (768.1 m) contained in an English pound (453.6 g) of cotton. For info, a skein is a twisted wire assembly:

Consider a Thomas Mason 140/2 fabric:

140 x 768.1 m = 107,534 m of yarn in 453.6 g. In this logic, the higher the title, the finer the fabric will be. The / 2 corresponds to “double twist” which means that 2 wires are twisted into one (a little like your laundry 2 in 1). This allows the wire to be more solid and even.

To give you a concrete example, D & J Anderson proposes a fabric called the Diamond Jubilee in 330/4 (which makes us 330 x 768,1m = 253,473m, multiplied by 4 twisted wires together). It is the most prestigious fabric of the Albini group. It is a fabric that also crumbles very quickly, but it does not scare the purists.

To summarize :

  •  4 brands (Albini, Thomas Masson, J & D Anderson, Albiate).
  •  20,000 types of fabrics produced.
  • 8 factories (each specialized in the production chain).
  • 1,300 employees (including 700 in Italy).
  • 14 million meters of fabrics produced each year.

Enough talk, I now suggest you take a tour of the historic factory located in Albino, to understand the stages of production of a fabric.

To conclude, we had the chance to meet Silvio Albini, president of the group. He tells us how Albini dealt with the crisis and resisted emerging markets. He also gives us his opinion on the purchases of men, who linger more and more on quality (you recognize yourself?).

Office Artist CDG Test

The range of shirts Artist Office is simple and effective, it is above all to wear dress shirts with jackets, suits or ties, even if the lookbook of the brand shows that it is possible to place these shirts in Much more daring outfits. The advantage of such a clear offer is that it is impossible to go wrong, because colors are very easy to wear, these are good examples of basics to have if you wear shirts very often.

I therefore facing a shirt with thin blue stripes which, with the white shirt and pale blue shirt, is an unconditional elegant wardrobe.

First impression: everything is clean and well done. As for the cup, nothing wrong, it is adjusted without being excessive. In this regard, the guide to the size mark is very well done, you should have no trouble choosing your size. I, who have long arms, I am delighted to see that they are not too short on me.

The collar is quite classic. With a height of 6 cm, it is in the air of the time, neither too small nor too big. Compared to the neck of Hast , it is a more formal because less hair flared, but then we enter discussions purists …

At the level of finishes, one remains on classical things. No reinforcement swallows, but new shirts have buttons sewn zampa di gallina  and seams are perfectly executed.

Who is Office Artist for?

Like Hast, the offer is clear and efficient. The big strong point of Office Artist is clearly the use of tissues Albini group, we usually found only on more expensive shirts. If you are a big consumer of shirts, this is a very interesting alternative at an affordable price. Learn how to iron a shirt for men at Growtheology.

Important: the brand opened its shop recently, at 3 rue Coëtlogon in Paris, do not hesitate to check it out. Olivier is a jovial man but above all, very good advice and who knows his products perfectly.

Gallery

Le costume en Prince de Galles Bonne Gueule

Le costume en Prince de Galles Bonne Gueule

Source: leclubdesdouze.com

Le costume en Prince de Galles Bonne Gueule

Le costume en Prince de Galles Bonne Gueule

Source: leclubdesdouze.com

Le costume en Prince de Galles Bonne Gueule

Le costume en Prince de Galles Bonne Gueule

Source: leclubdesdouze.com

Le costume en Prince de Galles Bonne Gueule

Le costume en Prince de Galles Bonne Gueule

Source: leclubdesdouze.com

Le costume en Prince de Galles Bonne Gueule

Le costume en Prince de Galles Bonne Gueule

Source: leclubdesdouze.com

Le costume en Prince de Galles Bonne Gueule

Le costume en Prince de Galles Bonne Gueule

Source: leclubdesdouze.com

Cina à la francaise, à la Bonne Bouche • La Chic Boutique

Cina à la francaise, à la Bonne Bouche • La Chic Boutique

Source: www.lachicboutique.ro

Le costume en Prince de Galles Bonne Gueule

Le costume en Prince de Galles Bonne Gueule

Source: leclubdesdouze.com

Test : les chemises casual Office Artist

Test : les chemises casual Office Artist

Source: www.bonnegueule.fr

Comment lancer sa marque de vêtements homme

Comment lancer sa marque de vêtements homme

Source: www.bonnegueule.fr

Les basiques de Bonne Gueule

Les basiques de Bonne Gueule

Source: advam.over-blog.com

Visite sur-mesure de la maison Cifonelli, tailleurs de …

Visite sur-mesure de la maison Cifonelli, tailleurs de ...

Source: www.gentside.com

Cina à la francaise, à la Bonne Bouche • La Chic Boutique

Cina à la francaise, à la Bonne Bouche • La Chic Boutique

Source: www.lachicboutique.ro

Chaussures Hommes – Bonne Gueule – 12 Janvier 2015

Chaussures Hommes - Bonne Gueule - 12 Janvier 2015

Source: www.bexley.fr

Cina à la francaise, à la Bonne Bouche • La Chic Boutique

Cina à la francaise, à la Bonne Bouche • La Chic Boutique

Source: www.lachicboutique.ro

Le costume en Prince de Galles Bonne Gueule

Le costume en Prince de Galles Bonne Gueule

Source: leclubdesdouze.com

Gallery

Gallery

Source: parisiangentleman.co.uk

Chaussures Hommes – Bonne Gueule – 08 Janvier 2016

Chaussures Hommes - Bonne Gueule - 08 Janvier 2016

Source: www.bexley.fr

Gallery

Gallery

Source: parisiangentleman.co.uk

Processed with VSCOcam with p5 preset

Processed with VSCOcam with p5 preset

Source: parisiangentleman.co.uk